Japanese Samurai Swords - Parts of

Samurai Swords

History of Samurai Swords

The Japanese term Samurai formerly referred to those standing close guard to nobility but it has later evolved to include warriors. Closely associated with Samurais were swords.  However, as the name underwent metamorphosis, so did their weapons. From AD 710 to 784, it was known to be a straight blade and was called  Chokutō.  Towards the end of 900’s, a curved version appeared and it was called a tachi. Another famous sword that came around, but much shorter than a tachi, was the Uchigatan.  Finally, the katana came about and this become what is known to many now as the Samurai sword.

Sometimes, the katana is used with a smaller sword known as Wakizashi or tantō.  Together, they are called a daishō (which means big and small), and wearing them was a symbol exclusive for the samurai warriors only as it represented their honor and power.

Description of Samurai Swords

Through the course of time, the length of samurai sword had been altered to suit the ease of use during combat.  Generally, the blade length is greater than 60 cm (23.6 inches) and it is moderately curved. Samurai warriors wore this sword with the cutting edge up.

How to Check for Authenticity of Samurai Swords

Owning a samurai sword either as part of a decoration, collection or for martial arts activity,  brings also honor to some people. But with so many out in the market now, how does one find a real one over replicas?

A Japanese steel called "Tamahagane” is used in making the Samurai sword. Thus, to test if it’s really made from a metal, a magnet can be used.  Most replicas are made of aluminum and do not react with the magnet.

Another way to check for authenticity is to use a magnifying lens and check on the temper line or hamon. Tiny dots or specks are to be found along the border of such line. If it’s smooth, it’s likely to be a fake.

Going to a renowned store that has the reputation for selling authentic samurai swords 

is the best and most convenient way to stay safe. You can try to get recommendations from friends and associations who are considered experts on the field.

How to Take Care of Samurai Swords

As a general precaution, the sword must be treated with extreme care during handling. It should never be considered a toy and played around with. It should be kept away from kids and shouldn’t be handled at all by them.

The blade of the samurai sword is extremely sharp and may cause injury if mishandled. When cleaning the blade, it should be positioned with the edge away from you and it should never be touched. Even when sheathing or drawing out the sword, the blade should always be positioned away and never towards the person. 

The blade of the sword must be well- oiled, powdered and polished to prevent rust from developing. The choji oil, which is 99% mineral oil and 1% clove oil for fragrance, is the traditional oil used. However, the salts in the oil can also be a food for molds so it should be inspected and aired frequently.

When storing, the sword is kept inside the scabbard and it’s placed in a horizontal position with the sharp edge up. In such manner, the condition of the scabbard and the sword’s edge are preserved. The sword must fit well into the scabbard. If it starts to loosen up, it must be fixed to avoid accidental unsheathing and possible injury.

There are two main parts of the sword:
(1) The blade
(2) The mountings

Composite of the blade:

The point (Kissaki):
The point is the most difficult part of a sword to forge and to polish. The value of the sword is mainly determined by the condition of its point. Tempered lines (boshi) on a point need not necessarily be identical on both sides of the blade. Points can be classified into different types of the blade regardless of size, by size and shape, or by their tempered lines (boshi).

Dividing line of surface and point (Yokote)
Ridgeline (Shinogi): This line will not found on hira-zukuri blades.
Upper surface or ridge area (Shinogi-ji): Wide or narrow

Surface (Ji) and surface decoration:
- Grooves: were made for preventing the sword from bending and to lesser weight originally. Gradually were made for pure decoration.
- Carvings and inscriptions: A sword is not necessarily a good sword only because of its carvings or inscriptions on its surface or upper surface.

Tempered line (Yaki-ba): It is a continuous straight or wavelike line running the length of the blade. When skillfully polished, the tempered line, which is the hardest part of the steel, takes on a white color. It represents the most beautiful feature of samurai swords and is the most important item in their appraisal.

Back or top ridge (Mune)

Curvature (Sori): It is measured at the top ridge of a sword. Curvatures are classified into 2 types: deep and shallow.

Tang (Nakago): It fits in the handle or hilt. It is important in appraising samurai swords because they often reveal the date of a sword’s construction and the identity of its maker. It can be classified by the shapes of tangs, shape of tips of tangs, file marks on tangs (yasuri-me), rivet hole in the tang (mekugi-ana) or the inscriptions on tangs.

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